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Rock Climbing in Yangshuo

  
 The climbing itself is extremely varied and similar to that at Krabi in Thailand. The style changes considerably from one sector to the next, from vertical slabs with small crimps to rounded pockets, tufas and cracks. Furthermore, some crags have not been equipped with bolts and the routes have been ascended using trad gear, while some multi-pitch routes exist on the towers.

Most routes are circa 20 - 25m high, but some single pitches reach 40m in length. The grades are in both American and French and although most routes are in the 5a -7a region, thanks to recent activity some routes even reach the 8c mark. The sectors face all directions which means climbing is possible all day long and since many are slightly overhanging, climbing is also possible in light rain.

Main crags
Number of routes
26
34
Wine Bottle
22
Twin Gates Mountain
16
Thumb Peak
12
Twin Gate Mountain
16
Lei Pi Shan
19
Banyan Tree
15
Treasure Cave
15
Odin's Den
8
Baby Frog Buttress
13
Egg
31
Chicken Cave
11
 

  

 General information

Yangshuo Climbing Festival
 
The first Yangshuo Climbing Festival took place in October 2008 and the successful international event will be repeated from 13 - 15 November 2009.
The goal of the festival is to promote the sport of rock climbing and a sense of community among climbers throughout China in a fun, friendly, casual atmosphere. The festival organizers will donate a significant portion of proceeds raised through a modest entry fee back into the local Yangshuo schools in an effort to encourage a long-term collaborative partnership between climbers and the local community.
 
Yangshuo is a little-known corner of China, at present far removed from mass tourism but destined to become an unmissable destination for all those wishing to experience a region uncontaminated by consumerism which has invaded other more famous areas.



Useful advice
 
The first thing to do is to plan the trip carefully: check out the numerous local websites for precise information about where to stay. English is spoken in all restaurants and hotels and these will often help with travel transfers, as this may prove difficult if you don't speak Chinese.
A visa is necessary for China, this can be obtained from the Chinese Embassy in your home country / at the Immigration's Office in Hong Kong, but this means you may have to spend a couple of days in this city until the visa is granted. A more expensive alternative is to organize a visa through one of the specialist agencies at the Hong Kong airport. These usually provide the visa within the same working day.

 We highly recommend you buy the guidebook "Yangshuo, Rock Climbing" by Paul Collis, one of the most active new routers in the area. The guidebook is on sale in many local bars and the proceeds go to local bolt fund for new routes and route maintenance. Many of the older sectors have been updated, all sport routes are well equipped, but often the routes are missing a lower-off karabiner. Always take a screw gate Karabiner and some additional quick draws for the lower-off manoeuvre.
The main street in Yangshuo is called West Street and most shops, restaurants, bars and tourist agencies are located here. Gear can be hired from many local guides and those traveling alone should be able to meet other climbers here without any problem whatsoever.


Best time of year

Yangshuo is located in the Guanxi province and has a subtropical climate. Although climbing is possible all year round, the best time of year is either spring / autumn. Bear in mind that this area is highly popular during Chinese festivals such as "Chinese Spring", "Chinese New Year" (usually towards the end of January and the beginning of February), "Qing Ming" (beginning of April), "Labor Day" (1st of May), "Dragon Boat Festival" (start of June) and National Day at the start of October.

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